Sunday, September 5, 2010

You say to-mat-o...

The majority of the tomato harvest is in, and prices are creeping back up accordingly. But tomatoes are still available (here, anyway) at about $.59/lb. and quality is still pretty good.

When it comes to the supermarkets, we don't have much control over how they're picked and ripened; picked when still green and artificially ripened by subjecting them to ethylene to prompt the creation of enzymes that soften cell walls and also convert starches to sugars. We're also subject to the choices of cultivars chosen by the growers, where soil/weather conditions, disease resistance and overall profitability are the primary considerations, not flavor. But if you didn't like what was available in June, don't fret - according to Tomato Magazine, in California, the cultivar grown in June is different from the ones grown in July and August. The final major factor is in the handling; ripening tomatoes produce a flavor enzyme, but once the temperature goes below 55 degrees, the enzyme stops producing flavor permanently. And many times tomatoes are shipped with lettuce - which is generally kept at 37 degrees.

So if you get fresh tomatoes:
- do NOT put them in the refrigerator.
- keep them stem side up
- if you are impatient and want the tomatoes to ripen faster, keep the tomatoes in a paper bag, which traps the ethylene;

Personally, I've evolved to a philosophy that when I have ingredients of good quality, I let those main ingredients do the heavy lifting in terms of providing flavor. Of course, the criteria for a perfect tomato seems to vary with locale, ethniciaty and personal history. So you will each have your own standard for a great tomato. Just don't ruin it by overdoing it. But if you insist on trying to raise the level of flavor, it should help to understand that a large part of the flavor comes from the balance of sweetness and acidity.

- salt, if something has been oversalted accidentally, I generally try to raise the acidity level to compensate, so if you find the acidity level of the tomatoes a little high for your tastes,  a little salt should bring the perceived acidity down so that the tomatoes will seem sweeter;
- herbs - especially basil, but pepper works also;
- balsamic vinegar' - can influence both the sweetness *and* the acidity if the tomatoes seem relatively tasteless;
- (surprise) something with a creamy mouth-feel often does the trick - a soft mozzarella, even mayonnaise - to pair up with the acidity (tartness) in the tomato (no surprise that tomato soup goes so well with a grilled cheese sandwich);
- most folks will tend to want to emphasize the sweetness, but if you want to raise the tartness, something acidic will do the trick - regular vinegar, lemon juice, even something like sour cream...

And of course, you can use these to liven up the flavor of the usual tomatoes available at the supermarket.

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